Learning how to surf is a humbling endeavor, characterized by endless falls, waves crashing over you, and the relentless task of getting back on the board. However, there is a magical moment when you catch a wave and ride its momentum, a euphoria akin to flying with the water. This exhilarating feeling is what pro-adaptive surfer Victoria Feige aims to share with everyone, regardless of their physical or mental abilities. Surfing, an excellent form of exercise in a natural environment, has been shown to build confidence, resilience, and social skills in children with intellectual disabilities. It has also been found to help veterans with PTSD and depressive symptoms.

Creating Inclusive Surfing Opportunities

To share her love of surfing with people of all abilities, Feige recently joined forces with Hawaii pro-surfer Jamie O’Brien to offer private adaptive surf lessons at the Jamie O’Brien Surf Experience at Turtle Bay Resort. This initiative, launched in early March, marks Hawaii’s first and only surf school offering adaptive surf lessons. “We’re setting the center stage for what’s possible and at the same time, keeping them safe,” O’Brien said. Located on the North Shore of Oahu, Turtle Bay Resort is adjacent to Kawela Bay, a protected bay where the reef breaks down wave energy into soft, gentle waves. The beach is easily accessible, with tracks making entry into the water straightforward, making it an ideal location for adaptive surfing lessons.

Feige’s Inspiring Journey

Victoria Feige, originally from Vancouver, Canada, now resides in Hawaii. She grew up enjoying board sports like skiing and surfing. However, at 18, she suffered an incomplete spinal cord injury from a bad snowboarding jump, leaving her partially paralyzed from the waist down. Although she can stand and walk a little, Feige primarily uses a wheelchair.

Despite her injury, Feige’s love for the ocean and board sports never waned. Two years after her injury, she attempted surfing again, starting in the whitewash and gradually progressing. She found inspiration in other adaptive surfers who showed her that she could still catch and ride waves as she had before her injury. Today, Feige holds multiple world titles in paralympic surfing and works as an adaptive surf and ski instructor, as well as a physiotherapist.

The Adaptive Surfing Experience

Feige aims to create the gold standard of adaptive surf lessons at Turtle Bay. Students, ranging from age 4 and up, fill out an intake form detailing their medical needs and physical capabilities. Each student is paired with two instructors for a personalized experience. Every instructor is trained to work with people with different disabilities, and if Feige is in Hawaii, she often leads the lessons herself.

The surf school welcomes surfers of all skill levels, from beginners getting their first taste of surfing to more experienced individuals learning to progress and work on maneuvers. Adaptive surfboards, which can be modified with handles, knobs, or risers, ensure safety and comfort. The surf school also provides golf carts and a fibrous beach wheelchair to transport students to and from the beach.

Turtle Bay Resort is designed to be widely accessible, with ADA-compliant entrances, facilities, and guest accommodations. Feige and O’Brien hope to expand their adaptive surfing offerings to include clinics and events, fostering a sense of community and shared learning. “It shows you surfing is for everybody,” O’Brien said. “There’s no limitation on who and who cannot go surfing. The ocean is for everybody.”